The haggis
is the centerpiece of the Burns Night Celebration
and is usually carried in by the chef on a silver
plate. A kilted bagpiper leads the procession.
Other guests followed carrying the “neeps
and tatties” the turnips and mashed potatoes.
Before tasting this delicious
Scottish Dish, Robert
Burns’ “Address to the Haggis”
is recited and the Haggis is stabbed with a
traditional “Sgian-dhu” or black
knife which the Highlander carries on his socks,
the traditional beverage served is of course,
“the Water of Life”, The Whisky.
The origins of the Haggis
are unknown, some people believed its origins
to be in Scandinavia, France, England or even
in ancient Greece and Italy, as a very similar
dish could be found in these countries.
According to the Oxford English Dictionary,
The Haggis is a dish consisting of the heart,
lungs and liver of a sheep, calf, etc (or sometimes
of the tripe, minced with suet and oatmeal,
seasoned with salt, pepper, onions, etc and
boiled like a large sausage).
This dictionary also mentions
that the Haggis is now considered Scottish but
it was a popular dish in English Cookery at
the beginning of the 18th century. Also it was
found on one of the oldest cookbooks in English
“The Form of Cury” (cookery) written
in 1390 by one of the cooks to Richard II and
this book had a dish called “Afronchemoyle”
which is the Haggis.
The recipe of “The
Form of the Cury” is the following:
“Take eggs, with
the yolk and the white together, and mix with
white bread crumbs and diced sheep’s fat.
Season with pepper and saffron. Stuff a sheep’s
tripe with the mixture, sewing securely. Steam
or boil and drain before serving”.
There are some stories
about the real origins of the haggis.
1. It came from France
during the “Auld Alliance” sometime
during the Middle Ages, this is how Sir Walter
Scott saw it in his work “The Fortunes
of Nigel”.
2. Clarissa Dickson Wright,
in her book “The Haggis” has a different
opinion. She believes the Haggis comes from
Scandinavia. Dishes made from the maw of an
animal can still be found in this country. Scandinavian
people visiting Scotland had claimed its similarity
with their local dish. It is possible that the
Vikings brought their haggis to Scotland while
raiding this country; (they brought many things
with them including their sheep and cooking
skills when they settled in Scotland).
3. Perhaps the haggis
came to Scotland from the Vikings but via France.
After all Normandy got its name from the Norsemen.
French ambassadors and other travelers could
have brought it to Scotland. Let’s bare
in mind that for many years Paris was a finishing
school for the Scottish nobility and a training
for the clergy.
4. In Ancient Rome and
Greece butchers sold carcasses with all the
innards intact and a passage from Aristophanes
“The Clouds” suggests that they
used to eat something similar to the Haggis.
Historically, the 15th
century haggis recipes used the liver and blood
of the sheep. Later in the 17th century comes
a recipe for a meatless haggis in a sheep’s
paunch. This one uses parsley, savoury, thyme,
onions, beef suet, oatmeal, cloves, mace, salt
and pepper; mixed together and sewn up and boiled.
It was served with a hole cut in the top and
filled with melted butter and 2 eggs.
Perhaps one of the reasons
of the popularity of the haggis may have been
that in the past, cooking pots were hard to
find and the maw of a freshly killed animal
was the perfect solution. The offal, the parts
that go bad soonest, would have been eaten first.
After the liver and kidneys were eaten, the
Scots were left with the stomach which they
used as a ready made cooking container.
In Scotland and other
countries, haggis was made with meat that was
dried or smoked to keep it fresh along the winter.
Swedish Polsa is also made in this way.
There are modern haggis
recipes which use pig meat and a banqueting
dish from the middle ages was called small pig’s
haggis. Another variety can be made of chicken
and venison.
One anecdote about the
Haggis.
In 1746, after the Battle
of Culloden, a small group of Jacobite soldiers
led by James Moir, laird of Stoneywood, was
cooking their haggis over a fire when a band
of Hanoverian soldiers rode up. In the melee
that followed, the cooking pot was overturned
and the haggis rolled out. An English soldier
caught the haggis on his bayonet causing the
hot pudding to burst and scattered the contents
all over the English soldiers. The Jacobites
ran for their lives, one of them calling out
in Gaelic: “Even the haggis, God bless
her, can charge downhill”!
Haggis in Humour
Ask a Scotsman, what a haggis is and you will
probably get this explanation:
A haggis is a small four-legged
Scottish Highland creature, which has the limbs
on one side shorter than on the other side.
This means that it is well adapted to run around
the hills at a steady altitude, without either
ascending or descending. However, a haggis can
easily be caught by running around the hill
in the opposite direction. Surprisingly, the
humorous myth is believed by many tourists until
they are told the truth.
Taste the Haggis,
you will not regret it !
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